Welcome to the Mailbag edition of my Swaziland updates. Thanks to the people who sent questions, especially the senders of multiple questions.
One thing that I want to convey is that I can try to answer the questions regarding Swazi culture, but even if I were to live here the rest of my life I’d never understand a lot of it. So, I’ve tried to answer the questions the best that I can, but after three months in Swaziland I need to admit that I’m not an absolute expert.
I’ll send a regular update soon. Now for some Q&A:
Q. What is the church like? Is it a “if you build it, they will come” type of tent or a building…?
–Anne, San Francisco, CA
The Dwaleni church that I usually attend is a small brick church. An average of about 30 children and 10 adults attend.
From what I’m told, when a new church starts, they often put up a tent and preach daily. A lot of people come at first. Then, they erect a building and with time the congregation dwindles. We are considering a very different approach with the potential Lavumisa church plant. I should know more soon.
Q. What do you sleep on - hammocks or beds?
–Anne, San Francisco, CA
I sleep on a bed with a really cheap mattress. I think that the mattress was new when I arrived, and my almost 200 pounds have really flattened that mattress out. I can feel right through to the supporting boards underneath, but it still is pretty comfortable. I do feel a little bit bad about squishing the McCubbins’ mattress.
Many of the Swazis sleep in beds, but many of them sleep on the floor. Often, five or six people share a room at night, and there may or may not be even a single bed.
I’ve never seen a hammock in Swaziland.
Q. You mentioned that some of the reluctance with taking meds is the stigma associated with it - It seems so strange to me that a country that suffers so badly from an AIDS epidemic would have stigmas on those who do have the disease. How is that possible? What sort of things are done towards those with AIDS?
–Anne, San Francisco, CA
Let me first confess that I’m not entirely clear on the definition and use of the word stigma. I’m not sure of all the differences between stigma, discrimination, and ignorance. I though about this question for a long time and realized that I really don’t know the exact reasons that any of these three things occur. So, I talked about this with John (a Swazi without a Swazi name), with whom I often visit homesteads. I know that due to cultural barriers I’ll never fully understand, but I think that I can address a couple of the reasons:
a) Lack of knowledge regarding HIV transmission. Many people understand how HIV is spread, but many, many people do not. John told me that often people do not believe what they are told about HIV transmission. He said that many people believe that it can be transmitted by touching an infected person or even being around them. In this regard, people treat HIV/AIDS similarly to leprosy in Bible days. Because AIDS education is taught in the schools, many of the young people are now learning the actual ways in which it is spread.
Perhaps it seems odd that people will not believe medical authorities regarding the spread of HIV, but I’ve learned that what we accept as medical intuition in the States is actually taught to us. Many Swazis are rarely exposed to formal medicine. Additionally, traditional healers (aka witch doctors) are extremely common in Swaziland and greatly confuse the area of medicine.
I believe that even in the States, where people are well informed about AIDS, someone with HIV/AIDS would still encounter stigma and discrimination. What if you found out that the person who works right beside you is HIV+? I bet that this would change many Americans’ behavior around that person, and it really shouldn’t. From another perspective, if you found out that you were HIV+, imagine telling those around you. Would you be scared that you’d be treated differently? I think I would be.
b) Denial. Almost all Swazis accept that the AIDS epidemic is widespread in Swaziland, but they seldom acknowledge it in their own families. They treat it like it’s affecting the rest of Swaziland. Accepting the presence of a deadly disease in your own family is not easy, especially when the best available medicine will only delay a painful death by several years. People don’t like to get tested for HIV because it is acknowledging the potential of an early, difficult death.
A friend of Arnau’s recently died of AIDS. Arnau talked to him several days before his death when he was extremely sick, and he told Arnau that the problem was that he had been working too hard in the fields. Another common excuse is to say that someone got sick from eating a poison.
Q. Do they consider disc golf a sport in Swaziland?
–Eric, Saint Paul, MN
Hahaha… I think that only eleven of us here have ever heard of disc golf. I haven’t found many discs in the local sporting goods shops. I think that disc golf is considered a sport here about as much as American football or baseball.
Q. What is the Swaziland King’s name and what is your favorite thing about him? What is your least favorite thing about him?
–Eric, Saint Paul, MN
His name is King Mswati III. My favorite thing about him is that he is the king of a very peaceful nation. I also like that he almost always wears the traditional clothes.
I respect the king very much. His nation has been wonderful to me. I do believe, however, that one of the best things that could happen to Swaziland is if intimacy were reserved for dedicated and faithful marriage relationships between a single man and a single woman. This would improve the situations of HIV/AIDS, the large number of orphans, and the many children growing up without a father. It is also the way Jesus wants us to live, which I’ve come to realize means that it’s the best way to live. I think that the king has a very unique opportunity to set an example for the nation of how this type of relationship would look, and I believe that this could dramatically help Swaziland. As it is, he has (last I heard) 13 wives. The annual Reed Dance Festival is an opportunity for the King to choose a new wife from among many young scantily clad virgins.
Wikipedia has some interesting information available on the king if you’re interested: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mswati_III_of_Swaziland
Q. What is the most common thing you ask people there?
–Eric, Saint Paul, MN
Unjani? (How are you?)
Okay, past the greetings, I really try to get to know as much as possible about people’s family situations. I’ve found that with just a few questions people will tell me a lot about their families. Common starters are: How many children do you have? How many siblings do you have? How many wives does your father/grandfather have? Do you live with the children from all of his wives? Are both of your parents living at your homestead?
Another favorite of mine is: Are you faithful to your wife?
Q. What was the most embarrassing thing that has happened to you in Swaziland?
–Eric, Saint Paul, MN
I could write many, many pages about this one. I’ve really come to understand that living in a new culture prompts a person to do many things that are very stupid and appear even more stupid without explanation. Also, I know that people notice the things that I do more because I stick out a bit. So, I’ve gotten good at laughing at myself.
One situation that sticks out to me is a day that I wanted to take the bus to Mbabane. The bus was in its usual spot in the Nhlangano bus station, but for some reason the door was not open. I saw that some people were on the bus, but it was far from full. I did not understand why the door was closed. There were three guys about my age nearby. I went up to them and boldly inquired why the door was closed. They looked at me as if to ask if I was joking or if I was really that stupid. After an awkward pause, one of them said, “That’s the door for the driver. The passengers go through the door on the other side.”
I tried to explain that where I’m from people drive on the opposite side of the road, so the driver is on the opposite side of the bus, so we board on the opposite side of the bus. It was of no use. I don’t think they understood what I was saying. I gave up and simply walked around to bus to board. I see one of those guys around sometimes, and I still feel dumb enough that I try to avoid eye contact.
Q. When are the Cubs going to win the World Series?
–Eric, Saint Paul, MN
I don’t think that MLB has released this year’s playoff schedule yet, so I can’t predict the exact date. I would imagine that they’ll take it in six games, which should fall around October 29th, 2008.
Q. As we know, “sleeping around” is a big problem in the spread of AIDS. So I am assuming that is a problem there. What is the Swazi’s view of women? What is their view of love and romance? What is their view of marriage?
–Eric, Saint Paul, MN
The gender inequality is extreme. Simply put, men are not always very nice to women. I see a lot of this, from men being physically rough with women in public to harassment on the streets and in the kombis.
Sleeping around is extremely common, both for married and unmarried people. Prostitution is also common, as many older men take advantage of younger women who are in desperate need of money (I will write more about this soon in an update). I do believe that sleeping around is also very common in the US, but condoms, birth control, and abortion help to hide this.
I will never understand all of the culture associated with marriage in Swaziland. I do know that one of the most shocking articles that I saw in the Times of Swaziland was regarding a woman who had been forced into marriage. She had essentially been kidnapped and forced into a traditional marriage ceremony. When her family went to the government to fight the marriage, the traditional branch of the government told them that the ceremony had been performed so there was no way out of it now. The government’s advice to the woman’s family was to take their lobola (reverse dowry) of cattle and quit complaining.
Polygamy is legal and somewhat common, especially among the older generation. Last I heard, the king has 13 wives.
Q. What is something they are proud of as a nation?
–Eric, Saint Paul, MN
The Swazis are very proud of the fact that Swaziland is a peaceful country. This is one of the few African countries with sustained peace internally and externally. There is no significant political tension, and I imagine that political peace in Swaziland will prevail for a long time. The Swazis should be and are very proud of this fact.
Q. What adjustments, if any, have you made to your daily devotional practices with the Good Lord to help deal with the drastic differences in the American/African cultures and challenges you have encountered throughout (such as taking private prayer walks, Bible verse memorization, pledging a daily sacrifice of obedience, etc.)?
–Paul, Waukesha, WI
Interesting question. Thanks, Paul. My Bible reading schedule hasn’t changed much. I think that the biggest change has been a very regular time of prayer and a time for praying for others. Writing nightly in a journal has played a major role for me spiritually in a lot of ways. It helps me to write through and process the many new feelings, experiences, joys, and challenges. I’ve never before been a regular journaler, but this has been really important for me here. I do use it to simply record events so that I’ll remember later, but I also use it as a tool to stay focused and in prayer.
Q. What is your favorite and least favorite new food? Is the food spicy?
–Lori, Milwaukee, WI
My favorite new food is fresh lychees. Lychees are a delicious fruit. They’re just smaller than a golf ball. You peel them and then eat them, spitting out a pit. They are similar to grapes but juicier, sweeter, and more delicious. One day I was sitting in a stopped kombi in Manzini, and I wanted to peel a lychee without getting juice all over me. I reached out the window to remove the peel. I thought it would drip rather than squirt juice, but I squirted juice a good distance all over a nearby man. He wasn’t happy. I apologized profusely and gave him a lychee. This seemed to help, but he was still pretty upset.
As for my least favorite new food, at first I really didn’t like beet root, but it has grown on me. In fact, now I really like it. I have been at Swazi gatherings where many people ate chicken claws, but they didn’t serve any to me.
The food is definitely not spicy. Very little or no spices at all are used for Swazi style meat, which is usually either chicken or beef. For lunch, I often eat at Richfield Butchery, and my usual order is rice and beef with a small side of vegetables for about $1.80. The beef has no spices.
Q. Is there one orphan that particularly stands out to you?
–Lori, Milwaukee, WI
I’m a little bit surprised at the amount that I like them all the same. They are very different personalities, but I like them all so much. I will admit that there is something special to me about Menzi. I like how excited he gets sometimes. He yells, “Uncle Tim! Uncle Tim!” and jumps up and down and does this funny chicken-like dance that you can see 12 seconds into this previously linked YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uObJvXgRc4c
There is also one orphan who eats at the Dwaleni church named Anile who I like a lot.
Q. What is the relationship like b/w Swaziland and S. Africa?
–Lori, Milwaukee, WI
Politically, I think that it’s fine. South Africa is so much larger than Swaziland that I don’t think the typical South African spends much time thinking about Swaziland.
Recently, South Africa has been experiencing some serious power shortages. In the major cities they often shut off power for hours or even days without forewarning. I was told by several people (but haven’t personally confirmed) that since South Africa supplies 85-90% of Swaziland’s power that they might cut it off at any time. So far this hasn’t happened, but it could really hurt Swaziland (and my chance for email access) if it does.
Q. What have you learned about prayer?
–Lori, Milwaukee, WI
The biggest thing that I’ve learned and been fortunate enough to experience is what a blessing and source of strength having many, many people praying regularly for me has been. I don’t want to imagine what my Swaziland experience would look like if I did not have people praying for me. Now, I really understand that missionaries are serious when they say their biggest need is prayer. I always before just thought this was a lead-in statement to asking for money.
I have also really been dedicated to consistent prayer for myself, my friends back home, Swazis, and guidance in ministry. I’m praying regularly for others more than I ever have before. Being linked to many people back home through prayer has really demonstrated the meaning of Paul’s words in Philippians 1:3-11.
Q. Do you change your underwear every day?
–Brian, Schenectady, NY
I’ll put it this way — I change my underwear with about the same frequency as I did back home.
Q. What can someone in the US do to help the AIDS situation in Africa?
–Brian, Schenectady, NY
I don’t know. I really don’t know. I asked a couple people how I should answer this question, and they smiled and said something to the effect of, “That’s a tough one.”
Arnau had an interesting thought. He said that people should pray. But, don’t only pray for the people and situation in Africa. Actually pray with this exact question, because it will be different for many people. If you really want to help the AIDS situation in Africa, pray directly asking God how you can help the AIDS situation in Africa. Maybe God will have some really good ideas for you.
Q. What one thing would you most like to change in Swaziland?
–Brian, Schenectady, NY
I would really love to especially see the men raised to live in Christ. I want to see them lead and raise a family through service and love. This is one reason that I really value my time with Lwazi and the other boys.
I would like to see the same thing in the US.
Q. Is there a McDonald’s where you are?
–Jodi & class, Waukesha, WI
As far as I know, there is not a single McDonald’s in Swaziland. Amazing, huh? There are two KFC’s that I know of, but not close to me.